**Note: I've debated how to set this up, and I think the general layout will have two parts. The first part will be more abstract, focusing on ideas, people, things I've learned, stereotypes, and the like; the second part will be more concrete, with pictures and details regarding where we go and what we do. Feel free to jump to whatever part interests you the most, I simply appreciate you taking the time to learn alongside me!**
PART I:
Today I was asked to reflect on my journey thus far. Looking at my calendar, I count back to the day I set foot in Oman. Two weeks. The number startles me. Somehow it feels both too long and not long enough. As I reminisce, a vivid memory replays in my mind...
Moving sidewalks carry my group through a pristine airport, the smell of fresh paint lingers in the air. Donning our suitcases, backpacks, and the weight of 23 hours of travel, we navigate a mass of earth-toned clothes and unique head coverings. Later, I would learn that the differences in styles and patterns are indicative of tribes and nationalities, and I would not only find comfort in their presence, but security. In this moment, however, my intrigue is disrupted by unease. My stomach begins to mimic the knots holding the wraps to their heads. An unfamiliar tongue reverberating off the cream-colored marble distracts me from my thoughts, and next thing I know, I'm outside where palm trees slowly sway in the warm, gentle breeze, covered by a blanket of stars. Almost instantaneously, my hesitations permanently drift away and I know that these people and this place would not only be my home for the next four months, but they would become beloved. They already were...
The second I received the reflection assignment, I thought of everything my group has already done, people met, and ideas learned. I could talk about tribalism, Islam, sharia, hospitality, infrastructure development and the global economy, or even the generational divide in the vision for Oman's future. Each topic will have its time, but for now, I want to talk about curiosity.
"I appreciate the curiosity, but I myself am not a curiosity." I stopped. Do you ever have moments where you realize you just wrote something important, something with weight, something that finally put words to an innate, previously indescribable feeling? I read it again. I myself am not a curiosity. Those are powerful words. They make me reflect not only on my journey but also why I am here. They help me understand the intensity of my frustration at the sight of scantily-clad westerners refusing to engage or respect the culture as they stroll through the market (souq). Most importantly, this statement is a reflection on how I engage others in my own curiosity. I appreciate the acknowledgment of curiosity because it gives me a chance to engage, but I need to remember how my own curiosity is manifesting itself. Am I observing this culture as if it is an object or engaging it as a student, learner, global citizen, or sister in faith?
Part of what it is to be a westerner in a Muslim-majority country is the acceptance of your minority status. Your beliefs, or lack thereof, are likely minority. Your dress code, or even entire external appearance, is likely minority. There has to be a certain level of acceptance of the differences and the inevitable attention that they will draw, but I've found that the differences are part of what makes life here so interesting. People are often just as curious about you as you are about them. Often times when I am walking through the souq, I will be stared at or encouraged to go inside the merchant's store. While many people might be turned off by this interaction, I don't mind their curiosity, often finding it a chance to engage, either in a full-blown conversation, social situation permitting, or simply using my limited Arabic skills to politely decline. There are many factors that determine what type of interaction is initiated, but one of the most important ones is how your curiosity engages those around you.
To understand your engagement more fully, I believe the distinction between subjective and objective curiosity should be explored. When I say "subjective curiosity", I am referring to curiosity of the person, who they are, what they believe, how they relate to the culture, etc. This could also be curiosity of a culture or country as a whole. The importance of the subjective label is that it allows for variation. This means that you recognize the individualized experience, the uniqueness of a culture or country. Most importantly, there is a recognition of the humanity of curiosity.
Objective curiosity, on the other hand, views cultures and people as something to be observed rather than engaged. In my mind, this type of curiosity likens a culture or person to an exhibit or zoo. This is the root of my previous statement, "I am not a curiosity." I am not something to be observed, put on display; likewise, neither are the lovely people of Oman. Recognizing this causes us to turn inward and look at the reason we travel. Is it for the selfies? The likes? Is it for research or school? Is it an escape? A present or treat? There are many ways and reasons we travel, but I think we have to recognize our purpose for traveling both for our own experience and that of those we meet.
With that said, there are times when objective curiosity might be preferable, though I have found that subjective curiosity often creates scenarios to engage people and culture on a deeper, more meaningful level. This is how you learn about the culture, have a chance to ask questions, or reframe stereotypes. Subjective curiosity is fluid, alive, growing; it can be simultaneously satisfied and deepened with engagement. It is other-serving. Objective curiosity is answerable. It is definite, surface level, less mutual.
This is not intended to demean objective curiosity, but rather cause people to think about what kind of experience they want to have. If you want to observe the culture, it matters less what you wear, do, or say (though it definitely still matters). You're observing. And they are observing you. Subjective curiosity, on the other hand, requires that you acknowledge the culture, the people, the city. If you want to have lively and thought-provoking conversations, make yourself welcoming and available to do so. Wear the culturally appropriate clothes (Omanis are too kind to tell tourists that they aren't dressed appropriately, but you will get looks, and you will ultimately have a different experience because people will engage you differently–or not at all), engage people, ask questions, and don't be afraid to make mistakes.
One of the main goals of this semester is for us to learn how to engage people in interfaith dialogue and promote peace-building, especially with our Muslim brothers and sisters. It is a worthy goal and a possible one, as long as we humbly engage those around us with an openness and curiosity, recognizing their humanity and finding joy in the similarities and the differences. In the same way, I challenge you to think about your curiosity. How do you choose to engage the culture around you? Are you observing or engaging?
PART II:
Our days have been full of outings and discoveries that make the time fly, and yet, despite the novelty of my new home, I feel as though some part of my heart has been in this country all along, just waiting for me to find it.
To start off, I'll just give a brief description of life here at the Al Amana Centre in Muscat, the capital city of Oman. Five times a day calls to prayer echo off the arid, rocky mountains filling the whitewashed city and turquoise coast with beautiful reminders of the divine. We have classes in our living room Sunday to Thursday, a typical workweek here, where we study Arabic, Omani Culture and History, and Christian-Muslim interfaith dialogue, all of which are absolutely fascinating. At lunch we usually walk down the street to the souq, greeting the salesmen as we head to the corniche or fish market. Frankincense, saffron, and rose water perfumes permeate the 200-year old market, setting the ambiance for a good barter amidst the hustle and bustle. Each night we have a home-cooked meal, typically delicious Indian food, that we eat family style. Once adequately stuffed, we typically roam the streets or relax back home. One of our favorite places to go after dinner is Shaw's rug shop in the souq. Shaw is a dear friend of Al Amana Centre, both its employees and students. He is the most hospitable person I have ever met and has already taught us so much about his home, Kashmir, his craft–weaving, Omani culture, and so many other things. I enjoy every chance I get to talk with him. Plus, he makes the best karak (tea) in all of Oman. No kidding. Anyway, we're living the dream, to say the least.
Dhow Ride:
A dhow is a traditional boat once used around the Indian Ocean and Red Sea. There are two levels, the upper one is covered with carpet and has pillows on the floor, and the lower one has benches lining the sides and a table for refreshments. Lights hang from the covered ceiling, creating the feeling of traveling back in time to the age of exploration and trade. We left the harbor in the late afternoon, so we just sat back, ate dates and drank coffee as the coastline was illuminated by the sunset.
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque:
This was the first mosque we visited, and after visiting multiple others, this one has yet to be topped. There are countless awe-inspiring details about the mosque, such as its carpet being woven in house, or the massive Swarovski crystal chandeliers, but what truly sets it apart is the feeling of welcomeness. Sultan Qaboos was intentional with its design, making sure to incorporate architecture unique to each Islamic tradition and even one tribute to Christianity. His goal was that everyone who walked through the gates would feel at home and able to worship within its walls. If anything describes Omani hospitality culture, this is it. Even in a place that is so central to their culture, who they are, they are not focused on themselves. Rather, they want to make sure everyone feels at home. They even have an information center where Muslims are present to talk, answer questions, and share coffee, dates, ginger tea, and halwa with you. This has been one of my favorite outings to date.
Muscat Festival:
The Muscat Festival was born as a response to the rapid development in Oman. The festival is designed to showcase traditional Omani culture. As we walked through the grounds, we saw traditional dances, dress, food, and craftsmanship. I didn't know that one of the instruments from this region a different form of the bagpipe! Our favorite foods were Omani flatbread with egg, honey, and cheese, and halwa, a delicacy made from eggs, honey, rosewater, dates, sugar, and nuts.
As we walked through the market area, we got to see craftsmen at work. We saw basketmakers, silversmiths, metal workers, weavers, and the like. Frankincense and saffron hung in the air, making everything smell amazing.
Later on, we found the area for camel rides! I've always wanted to ride a camel, and I can say that it lived up to expectations. If I can't ride horses while I'm here, I'll happily take a camel. Let's just say that riding into the desert and camping just made top of my Oman bucket list.
Beaches:
There are so many beautiful beaches in Oman. The mountains that outline the coves also create beautiful scenery against the turquoise water and palm trees. We have explored two beaches so far and have a couple more to go.
Riyam Trail:
Saturdays are usually filled with fun excursions or day trips, such as the Riyam Trail. The trail ends right down the street from the Centre, so it's an ideal spot to know about! We got to explore the mountains around us and even found a good camping spot for a later date. The only catch is that you have to get started really early in order to beat the heat. But, that's easy enough. We're excited to try out the other trails in this area!
Thank you for tuning in to this update! I'm excited to share and engage with you as we continue interesting and lively dialogue in the wild desert places, inshallah.
Salaam,
Anna